Soak the brioche breadcrumbs in the milk for 10 minutes.

Add the meats, eggs, cheeses, garlic, shallot, parsley, and seasonings to the soaked crumbs. Mix gently and stop the moment it comes together. Overworked meat turns tough.

Fold in the cold diced butter last. It melts slowly as the meatballs cook, and that is what keeps the centers so tender.

Roll into meatballs of about 3½ ounces each and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Heat the olive oil in a cast iron skillet and brown the meatballs on every side until deeply caramelized. Don't cook them through. Pull them from the pan and set aside.

Cook the onion slowly in the olive oil until translucent.

Add the garlic and cook gently.

Stir in the tomato paste and cook until it turns brick red.

Deglaze the pot with the wine.

Crush the tomatoes by hand and add them to the pot.

Add the cheese rind, basil, oregano, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper.

Simmer uncovered for 90 minutes, then pull out the herbs and the rind. Taste, and add the sugar only if the tomatoes need it.

Nestle the browned meatballs into the sauce, cover, and cook for 45 minutes over very low heat. Never let it boil.

Set three meatballs in a warm, shallow bowl and ladle sauce over the top.

Finish with

• Fresh burrata
• Fresh basil
• Grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• A drizzle of Sicilian olive oil
• Flaky salt and cracked pepper

Serve with the grilled garlic sourdough on the side.